Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944). Evening Dress, 1910. Forest green and ivory striped silk, black silk chiffon, white cartridge pleated linen, brocaded ribbon. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Ogden Goelet, Peter Goelet, and Madison Clews in memory of Mrs. Henry Clews, 1961 (2009.300.1289)
Paul Poiret's early designs were revolutionary because the upright, columnar silhouette differed markedly from the prevailing S-curve line. One of his signature decorative techniques was to use folkloric textiles and trims that he collected in his travels. Here the collar and cuffs are fashioned from a traditional French pleated linen bonnet. Ribbons like those adorning festive folk costume encircle the raised waistline.
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